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Special Thanks:
Guest: Ms. A'Lelia Bundles
Venue: Indra Salon
Book-signing Event
COCOACHiC Ladies Hot Cocoa Sip: Book-signing Event for "On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker" by A'Leila Bundles on Tuesday, November 15, 2005, at 7 p.m. at Indra Salon.
For event details: www.cocoachic.com/events.php
Madam C.J. Walker
by T. Bernie
Madam C.J. Walker proclaimed, "The glory of woman lies in her hair." The early 1900's, post the abolition of slavery and in the wake of the Industrial Revolution, was the era of new growth. Black women needed to learn to embrace and enhance their very different features to the best of their abilities in order to succeed and be accepted in a world in which they were a prior outcast. A sophisticated appearance would lead to economic prosperity.
In 1906, Madam C.J. Walker started her own business as a hair culturist providing preparations and care methods to stimulate healthy hair and afford Black women pride in their appearance. Her "Wonderful Hair Grower" and regimen of scalp hygiene were a sensation. The Walker System of regular shampoos, press and style is the foundation of modern Black beautician styling.
"I got a start by giving myself a start," Madam C.J. Walker said. With limited distribution and retail outlets available to Blacks at the time, she was among early developers of franchising by applying a cooperative business model that employed and commissioned sales agents. Walker agents, along with the founder's charisma and impressive advertising lead to widespread use of her products. By the time of her passing in 1918, Madam C.J. Walker: grew her company sales to more than $500,000; had an estate valued approaching $700,000; owned a mansion in the affluent upstate New York community of Irvington-on-Hudson; had trained more than 40,000 agents; and gave generous sums of money to philanthropies. What Madam C.J. Walker achieved was more than just the American dream, but a feat given that she was among the first generation of free African-Americans. Her legacy is one of uplift for women particularly that Black women have the power to take charge of their situation and improve upon it. Her philosophies and successes spawned an entire Black hair care culture and industry. She empowered African-American to find their beauty and develop confidence and financial independence.
The African Tradition of Hair
by T. Bernie and Gisela Ballard
In ancient African cultures, hair texture and style indicated membership of a community, geographic origins, martial status, age, religion, ethnic identity, wealth and rank. Aesthetics, cleanliness and grooming of hair were as important as the style. Undone or unkempt hair was a signal something was wrong - bereavement, depression. As Blacks were uprooted and brought to America for enslavement, the means both emotionally and physically to carry on traditions were lost. Slavery did not allow African descendants the time, energy or resources to care for their appearance and hair. Rudimentary hair cultural differences began to emerge based on where the slave worked; field slaves wore head rags and house slaves attempted to style their hair like White owners. African hair style morphed from elaborate indications of status to imitations of White hair styles. Straight hair was the ideal and indicated social advantage and economic opportunity. After emancipation Blacks were desperate to fit in and improve their lives.
In the early 20th century, business entrepreneurs introduced a focus on growing hair and the health of hair and scalp as a means for mobility, social acceptance and economic prosperity. In the decades that have followed the paradigm shift among African-Americans has moved toward a beauty philosophy and the freedom to develop their own ideals and interpretation of 'good hair' - be it naturally coiffed afros and cornrows, a conventional pressed straight style or even fashionable weaves and wigs. Today just as in ancient African cultures, hair holds societal, spiritual and aesthetic significance that is inherently important to African-American women's sense of self.
Further Reading on Madam C.J. Walker and Black Beauty Culture

Websites

www.madamcjwalker.com

Books
 "On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker" by A'Lelia Bundles

"Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America" by Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps

"Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty Culture" by Kathy Peiss

"Hair Raising: Beauty, Culture and African American Women" by Noliwe Rooks

"Beauty and Business: Commerce, Gender and Culture in Modern America" by Philip Scranton

"Notable American Women: The Modern Period" by Barbara Sicherman and Carol Hurd Green

"For Appearance's Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty and Grooming" by Victoria Sherrow

Video/Film

"Two Dollars and a Dream" by Stanley Nelson

"Her-story of Hair: A Documentary of Black Beauty Pioneer and Entrepreneur Madam C.J. Walker" featuring A'Lelia Bundles as interviewed by T. Bernie, COCOACHIC, LLC (Available Spring 2006)
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